Ardoch (2), Fowlis Wester, Perthshire

Cup-and-Ring Stone:  OS Grid Reference – NN 91123 25978

Also Known as:

  1. Buchanty Hill
  2. Constellation Stone
  3. Footprint Stone

Getting Here

Ardoch (2) carving, with Milquhanzie hillfort behind

We took the long route to get here, via Fowlis Wester village, up to the car-park near the standing stones, then walk for 1¾ miles along the track: past the stones, veering right to go downhill then uphill, past the Ardoch (1) petroglyph and bearing right at the next split in the track, then right again at the next split.  Then, crossing a small burn and curving round the next bend, keep your eyes peeled for the track-cum-footpath that reaches uphill on your right (NE).  A shorter route is via the Foulford golf course (found along the A822 roughly halfway between Gilmerton and the entrance to the Sma’ Glen): take the track from there, eastwards into the hills, and literally ¾-mile along you reach the pylon; keep walking along the track for another 200 yards and on your left watch out for the same track-cum-footpath.  Walk up there for about 400 yards and, 35 yards to the right of the fence, you’ll see a large flat stone.

Archaeology & History

This is a most curious design, sitting way up near the top of this unnamed hill on its western face.  It’s curious as there are number of odd elongated cup-marks which, to me at least, should be described as footprints.  We find such designs on a few carvings (such as the one at Dunadd, and St. Columba’s Stone, etc), but they’re pretty rare.  The best can be found on the Cochno Stone a few miles north of Glasgow, with additional toes on the design… but that’s for another site profile – and an essay, perhaps, should I ever get round to writing it!  Anyhow…

It was first described, albeit briefly, by a Mr Comrie in 1972, who told us that,

“On a south-west facing slope of Buchanty Hill at 950ft is a boulder measuring 1.60m x 1.40m with 22 cups and 11 dumb-bells, 6 of which are distorted by a fault of quartz in the stone.”

Central “footprints”
“Footprints” & cup-marks

But his description of what he saw as eleven “dumb-bells” is somewhat extravagant.  Six, perhaps seven would seem the more probable.  I was hoping to find that the Scottish Rock Art Project doods might have spent some of their million quid in doing a computer enhancement of this carving in order to confirm it one way or the other, but this was one of hundreds that they never looked at.  Very poor… (and they only described two so-called dumb-bells here!)  The only other mention I’ve found of the place is in Finlayson’s (2010) fine survey of local megaliths, but only in passing.

The dumb-bells or “footprints” on this carving are small: fairy footprints, one might say.  The main ones are seen near the middle of the stone on its flat smooth surface.  Another—perhaps two—occur along a curious geological cut that runs in a straight line, north-south (roughly) over the rock.  This curious line has a series of deeply cut elements, mainly cup-marks, which give the impression of being enhanced or worked upon in much more recent centuries, looking almost as if they possessed some utilitarian function.  They’re most odd and are certainly much younger than the very worn cup-marks that are scattered across the stone in no particular order.  One of them seems to have a very faint ring around it.  You can just make it out in one of the photos.

Looking southeast
A nice close-up

So we’re looking at a multi-period carving done (probably) over several centuries.  Some of the cup-marks are barely visible unless the light is just right.  On my first visit here, the day was grey and overcast and some elements of the design were all but invisible; but on my second visit, one a beautiful evening, then wetting the rock, it shone out in all its splendour…. Well – as good as could be expected considering it may be five thousand years old!  But the footprints are the stand-out features of the design.

In a lengthy essay on this motif that’s found on numerous European petroglyphs, Miroslav Verner (1973) points out several traditional and theoretical meanings ascribed to the symbol, which may be relevant to the stone here.  The footprints may mark the rock as a pilgrimage site; or a representation of the location of a theophany, or genius loci.  In some places it can be a signature of the so-called artist; or a symbol of victory; and even a symbol which possesses the power to cure fevers and other ailments.  This latter tradition was known to have been practiced at the mightily impressive Blarnaboard (3) carving near Aberfoyle.

Another important feature of this carving its position in the landscape: more than a thousand feet above sea level, you sit here and the vista ahead of you reaches far far away into the distance from east to south to west.  The skies above and around it are open and seemingly endless from here.   It’s impressive and, most likely, these attributes are mythically significant to its meaning.  Have a look at the place: take a day out and sit here for a while and get your own impression of the place.  You’ll like it…

References:

  1. Comrie, J.E.M., “Fowlis Wester parish: Cup-marked Stone”, in Discovery & Excavation Scotand, 1972.
  2. Finlayson, Andrew, The Stones of Strathearn, One Tree Island: Comrie 2010.
  3. Verner, Miroslav, Some Nubian Petroglyphs on Czechoslovak Concessions, Universita Karlova: Praha 1973.

© Paul BennettThe Northern Antiquarian

Ardoch (1), Fowlis Wester, Perthshire

Cup-and-Ring Stone:  OS Grid Reference – NN 91195 25511

Getting Here

The Ardoch (1) stone

From Fowlis Wester village, head up the road for just over ½ a mile (veering sharp left at a junction) to the dusty car-park on the left-side of the road near the standing stones.  From here walk along the track, past the standing stones, veering right to go downhill and cross the burn by the loch near the ruins of Ardoch house; then keeping uphill on the track for another half-mile or so and, just before a split in the dirt-track, you’ll see a reasonably large rounded boulder just a few yards above the track on your right.  Y’ can’t really miss it!

Archaeology & History

This previously unrecorded cup-and-ring carving was rediscovered a few years ago by local lady Fiona McLaren: an absolute fount of knowledge when it comes to ancient sites in this area. It’s a pretty basic carving but is certainly worth looking at on your way up to see the much more unusual petroglyph of Ardoch (2).

The cup&ring highlighted
Close-up of the cup&ring

When we visited this stone for the first time recently, the design was difficult to make out due to the grey overcast skies.  The first thing you’ll notice is the single cup-marking on the left-side (west) of a natural crack near the top of the rock.  It’s pretty easy to make out.  But the cup-and-ring immediately left of this is much harder to see—or at least is was when we came here!  But spend a bit of time with it, adjusting your sight, wetting the stone and, slowly but surely, you’ll notice the shallow ring surrounding another smaller cup-mark.  You can make it out in the photo.  A possible smaller cup-mark on the sloping northern face seems more likely to have Nature’s signature on it.

AcknowledgementsHuge thanks to Fiona McLaren of Abercairney for first uncovering this carving and pointing us towards it.

© Paul BennettThe Northern Antiquarian

Duchlage, Crieff, Perthshire

Standing Stone (destroyed):  OS Grid Reference – NN 8655 2079

Archaeology & History

Site on the 1866 map

There is seemingly no trace left of this once impressive tall, slender standing stone that had lived for thousands of years on the south-side of Crieff.  It was destroyed by some retard in the middle of the 20th century (anyone know their name?).  Highlighted on the 1866 Ordnance Survey map of the area, it was visited and described by the late great Fred Coles (1911) when it still stood at the side of the road.  He told that it was,

“In shape a narrow rhomboid at the base, this Stone rises to an acute angle at a height of 6 feet.  Its longer axis is E.S.E. 52° by W.N.W. 52°, and in basal girth it  measures 8 feet 11 inches.”

Coles’ 1911 sketch

Some 200 yards to the south-east there used to be the curiously-named Stayt of Crieff burial mound which had been used as a court hill for many centuries.  This outlying standing stone may have been the “witness” on which oaths were sworn before the court.  Sadly the history of the Stayt of Crieff mound is also somewhat sparse and it too has, appallingly, been destroyed.  The destruction of these antiquities and their ancient traditions is nothing short of a fucking disgrace.

References:

  1. Coles, Fred, “Report on Stone Circles Surveyed in Perthshire, Principally Strathearn” in Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries, Scotland, volume 45, 1911.
  2. Finlayson, Andrew, The Stones of Strathearn, One Tree Island: Comrie 2010.

Acknowledgements:  Huge thanks for use of the Ordnance Survey map in this site profile, reproduced with the kind permission of the National Library of Scotland

© Paul BennettThe Northern Antiquarian

Synton Mossend, Ashkirk, Selkirkshire

Cup-and-Ring Stone (lost):  OS Grid Reference – NT 482 214

Also Known as:

  1. Blackcastle Hill

Getting Here

Archaeology & History

Despite there being a number of references to this carving, it would seem to have been lost.  First described by James Elliot (1967) in the Discovery & Excavation journal , albeit briefly, he told that,

“A cup-marked stone which was found on this farm several years ago, has been recently identified as a “cup within a cup” type.  (It was) retained by finder.”

But there was some initial confusion about its general whereabouts when Ron Morris (1967) gave a brief note of what seemed to be an additional carving in the same edition of the 1967 journal, telling us that at nearly Blackcastle Hill there existed the following:

“Small gritstone boulder, truncated-cone-shaped, having on its top surface a “cup-and-ring”, composed of a “saucer” 4½in diameter, within its centre a much deeper and clearly defined “cup”, 2in diameter.  Depth 1¼in.  Now removed for safety by J. W. Elliot to Whinfield Sawmill yard, Whinfield Road, Selkirk.”

As it turned out, both Elliot and Morris’s separate entries were talking about the same stone.  Morris subsequently clarified this when he came to describe the petroglyph in his survey of Southern Scotland. (1981)  He reported then that the carving was “beside the house’s porch in the sawmill’s yard” — but it hasn’t been seen since.  Does anyone know what’s become of it, or where it might be?  If you happen to find it, see if you can get a good photo or two and let us know on our Facebook group.

References:

  1. Elliot, James W., “Synton-Mossend, near Ashkirk: Cup-Marked Stone,” in Discovery & Excavation, Scotland, 1967.
  2. Morris, Ronald W.B., “Blackcastle Hill: Cup Marks,” in Discovery & Excavation, Scotland, 1967.
  3. Morris, Ronald W.B., “The Cup-and-Ring Marks and Similar Sculptures of Scotland: A Survey of the Southern Counties – part 2,” in Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries, Scotland, volume 100, 1968.
  4. Morris, Ronald W.B., “The Cup-and-Ring and Similar Early Sculptures of Scotland; Part 2 – The Rest of Scotland except Kintyre,” in Transactions of the Ancient Monuments Society, volume 16, 1969.
  5. Morris, Ronald W.B., The Prehistoric Rock Art of Southern Scotland, BAR: Oxford 1981.

© Paul BennettThe Northern Antiquarian

Seat Knowe, Fowlis Wester, Perthshire

Cairn:  OS Grid Reference – NN 93616 24689

Also Known as:

  1. Blairmore
  2. Murray’s Hill Wood

Getting Here

Seat Knowe, looking south

You need to hit the village of Fowlis Wester, which is easiest to approach from both east and west along the A85, between Crieff and Perth: nearly 3 miles east of Gilmerton and about 6½ mile west of Methven. Keep your eyes peeled and take the road up (north) where the large rounded tree-covered tumulus stands and up to the village.  Go through the village and uphill for literally ½ a mile (veering sharp left at a junction) where a gate on your right leads into the fields. (a large parking spot is 300 yards further uphill)  Walk ¼-mile east and through the other side of the small woodland, over the fence, you’ll see the mound of a typical tumulus.  That’s it!

Archaeology & History

If you’re going to visit the megalithic remains of Fowlis Wester ¾-miles to the west, the antiquarians amongst you might as well give this old burial mound your attention too.  It’s not grandiose by any means, but its position in the landscape is quite superb.  It’s built upon a long geological promontory with extensive views that reach from south-east to south to south-west for many miles into the distance with the Ochils framing the majority of the southern horizon, but also with the notable pap of the West Lomond hill 20 miles to the south-east mimicking the shape of the tomb itself.  It was obviously built here with the extended landscape having some ancestral importance. Visit it and see for yourself!

Despite being a notable mound, this tumulus-cum-cairn only seems to have been written about for the first time as recently as 1998, when archaeologist Ian Armit visited the site.  Roughly circular in form, it’s about 12 yards across and more than six feet in height.  A small pile of stones crowns the very top, placed here in much more recent times.  At ground level on its northern side, an arc of low lying stones define the edge of the tomb.  The stones probably continue all the way round the entire structure, but it’s overgrown by centuries of soil and vegetation and we lose sight of it as we walk round.  When Mr Armit (1998) wrote about the site, he and colleague wrote:

Seat Knowe, looking NW
Seat Knowe, looking north

“A grassed-over stony cairn lies on the highest point of Seat Knowe, a ridge commanding extensive views to the south.  The cairn has a diameter of c.10m and is up to 2m high.  A modern cairn occupies it summit.  The low turf foundations of a rectilinear structure, some 6 x 8m, occupy its south flank, and thee are extensive cultivation and field system remains in the vicinity.”

Check it out!  You won’t be disappointed.

Folklore

An interesting piece of relatively recent folklore about Seat Knowe, described in the Perthshire Name Book around 1862, told that,

“One of the Earls of Strathearn, desirous of having a church in the vicinity of his Castle, stood on an eminence, on which he had a summer seat, and resolved to erect it where the sun first shone, which was on the spot where it now stands.”

References:

  1. Armit, Ian & Hall, M., “Seat Knowe (Fowlis Wester parish): Cairn,” in Discovery & Excavation Scotland, 1998.

© Paul BennettThe Northern Antiquarian

Craggan Top, Hosh, Crieff, Perthshire

Cup-Marked Stone:  OS Grid Reference – NN 85602 24795

Getting Here

Craggan cup-marked stone

It’s a helluva zigzag to get here. Just out of Crieff along the A85 road to Comrie, turn right up the minor road to Hosh and Glenturret Distillery.  Just past the distillery, over the small river bridge, turn left and go up the tiny road for literally ⅔-mile (1.1km) and park up just before the cattle-grid. Naathen, up the slope into the trees at a diagonal behind where you’re parked, walk up and up for half-a-mile where the land levels out and you reach a gate (and my bath, in the undergrowth to your right).  A track goes up above the gate (not the one through it) and bends round where, 100 yards up, you reach a gate. Go over it and look at one of the stones in front of you!

Archaeology & History

Very faint cups

This is another one of those petroglyphs that only the purists amongst you will want to see.  On the lower section of this typically smooth female stone, you’ll see a singular cup-mark, half-natural half-carved, a couple of inches across, with a less discernible cup-mark of similar dimensions further up the rock, but entirely man-made.  When we visited here yesterday, the shadows of the trees above made it very difficult to get any decent photos of the cups.  Give it your eye on the journey up to the impressive standing stone of Stonefield a few hundred yards further up the hill; and if you manage to get any good photos, stick ’em on our Facebook group.

© Paul BennettThe Northern Antiquarian

Stonefield, Hosh, Crieff, Perthshire

Cup-Marked Stone:  OS Grid Reference – NN 8515 2484

Archaeology & History

Site of supposed cupmark

There’s little to see here.  In the 1990s, students from the Royal Commission found what they described as “a single cupmark”, 3 inches across by 1 inch deep, on a rock measuring 2-feet by 1½ feet, on the north side of this large (seemingly) natural mound with large scatters of field clearance stones all over its northern face.   When I visited the place yesterday (on my way to see the impressive Stonefield monolith 260 yards to the north-east), I zigzagged back and forth over the rocky mound and was unable to find it, although it may have been beneath the summer vegetation.  A winter visit may prove more fruitful.

© Paul BennettThe Northern Antiquarian

Connachan (7), Crieff, Perthshire

Cup-Marked Stone:  OS Grid Reference – NN 8806 2746

Getting Here

The small stone in question

You’re going from Crieff, up the A822 road from the Gilmerton junction and head up towards the Sma’ Glen.  And if you’re visiting this stone, you’ve already walked past the carvings of Connachan (2), (4), (5) and (6).  So just another 100 yards or so up the dirt-track past Connachan (4), (5) and (6), just where there’s a bend in the track, the land just about levels out (if you’ve reached the gate and fence you’ve gone too far). At this point walk onto the grassland on your right for barely 50 yards, just where the land sweeps back downhill.  Look around for a small stone at the edge of some very low indistinct walling.  You’ll find it!

Archaeology & History

Cluster of cups

A site that’s shown on the modern OS-map as a “cairn” but which is, by the look of things, actually a hut circle — and a somewhat indistinct hut circle at that!  You could very easily walk right through it without even noticing you’d done so.  However, the cup-marked stone on the outer edge of its southern wall does grab your attention!  Once you’ve found the stone, if you pace round a few times you’ll begin to see the vague outline of this prehistoric, probably Bronze Age abode.

at a slightly different angle

The carving was probably placed here after the hut circle had been built; or perhaps even built deliberately upon the petroglyph itself—but only an excavation would give us the answer.  Its incorporation in the hut circle was probably functional, somewhat like the Man Stone carving in North Yorkshire, which is found at the doorway there.  But this site is in such a state of neglect (and is somewhat overgrown) that I couldn’t ascertain whether it was at the entrance or not.  If it was, then most likely there was a mythic relationship between the design of the cups and the person who lived therein.  This relationship was probably a long standing traditional one attached to a particular family, or tribal leader, or even a shaman figure which no doubt stretched over many centuries. (as seems likely with the aforementioned Man Stone)

The carving itself is somewhat basic, as you can see, comprising of a small irregular cluster of between 18 and 20 tightly packed cups on a small stone.  The hut circle is about 14 yards across.  About 100 yards to the east is a severely robbed-out cairn.

References:

  1. Stewart, Margaret E.C., “Connachan, Crieff – Cup Marks and Hut Circle,” in Discovery & Excavation, Scotland, 1967.

© Paul BennettThe Northern Antiquarian

The Hagg, Kirkbymoorside, North Yorkshire

Tumulus (destroyed):  OS Grid Reference – SE 6803 8695

Also Known as:

  1. Robin Hood’s Howl

Archaeology & History

Site on the 1856 OS-map

There once stood a very impressive prehistoric burial mound here, a few hundred yards east of the roadside, just above the wooded valley known curiously as Robin Hood’s Howl.  Highlighted on the 1856 Ordnance Survey map as an elongated structure, it was suggested in McDonnell’s (1963) work to have been a long barrow, measuring roughly 70 feet long by 50 feet across and more than six feet in height.  It was seemingly written about for the first time by William Eastmead (1824) in his lengthy history of the area and was, he told,

“a tumulus of considerable dimensions (that) was lately opened at a place called the Hag, about a mile northwest of Kirkby-Moorside, in which was found an urn… Great numbers of human bones were also dug out…; and from the immense size of it, a great number of bodies appear to have been burnt indiscriminately, and the ashes of some particular person deposited in the urn.”

The urn would seem to have been either lost or destroyed—as has the tumulus.  It was apparently still intact, albeit very denuded, twenty years ago, but has since been ploughed out.

References:

  1. Eastmead, William, Historia Rievallensis: containing the history of Kirkby Moorside, R. Peat: Thirsk 1824.
  2. McDonnell, J. (ed.), History of Helmsley, Rievaulx and District, Stonegate: York 1963.

Acknowledgements:  Huge thanks for use of the Ordnance Survey map in this site profile, reproduced with the kind permission of the National Library of Scotland

© Paul BennettThe Northern Antiquarian

Giant’s Chair, Addingham High Moor, West Yorkshire

Cup-and-Ring Stone:  OS Grid Reference – SE 07450 46658

Also Known as:

  1. Carving no.230 (Hedges)
  2. Carving no.56 (Boughey & Vickerman)

Getting Here

Giants Chair, Gawk Stones

The easiest way to get reach here is via the Doubler Stones, which is usually approached either from the long and winding country lanes Silsden-side (you can’t drive all the way and there are hardly any parking spots en route), or from a long walk over the moors.  Taking the latter route, probably the easiest is by starting at Whetstone Gate right on the moortop, on the Ilkley-Keighley road.  From here, walk west along the footpath by the wallside for more than ½-mile until you reach the West Buckstones.  From here, take the footpath NW (not SW) alongside the walling for literally one mile, where a notable angular skewing of three walls appears: keep to the left and walk alongside that wall for another ⅓-mile (0.5km) then climb over the wall and head straight for the small TV mast.  The Giant’s Chair’s just below it.

Archaeology & History

Back of Giant’s Chair, with Doubler Stones behind

Some time in the mid- to late-1970s, on one of our early ventures to see the legendary Doubler Stones, this great rock outcrop of the Giant’s Chair also, understandably, drew our attention.  And, as young fertile teenage lads, we all but flew up onto the top of this great rocky rise with relative ease.  Now, nearly fifty years later, I’m unable to climb onto its top without ropes. (sigh….)  It’s not easy.  Anyhow, when we were on top of this rock as kids, a number of notable cup-markings stood out to us—in no distinct order, as I recall.  But on the day of our clambering visit, She was grey and overcast; as She was on the two or three other visits we made to the stone, sitting on its top, fondling the cup-marks and eating our sarnies.  All that I ever noticed were the cup-markings.

A few years after my early visits here, John Hedges (1986) wrote about this “very large high rock.” He mentioneed the cup-markings, obviously, but he also mentioned some things that we’d missed, saying that here are,

“Six large shallow worn cups, one with (a) partial ring and another with possible ring.  One cup on SW end.”

Single cup-mark (?)
One of the cup-and-rings (?), top-left

Sadly, I’ve never seen these rings and, these days, my ageing bones might not allow me back onto its surface to see them. (the expression, “sad bastard” comes to mind!)  On a recent visit here with Sarah Walker of Silsden, neither of us could get our useless arses on top! (the photos taken here were done with me stood on top of an adjacent rock, hands held high, trying to get at least some elements of the carving—with a minor bit of success, I think) I take comfort in the fact that when Boughey & Vickerman (2003) subsequently added this carving in their enlarged inventory, that they never got to see them either, as they gave it the completely wrong grid-reference!  And so, due to the ineptitude of us old folk, I await some younger and more competent explorers who can climb up on top and send us some good photos of the design, when weather and lighting conditions allow for good imagery.  Are there any takers…?

References:

  1. Boughey, Keith & Vickerman, E.A., Prehistoric Rock Art of the West Riding, WYAS: Wakefield 2003.
  2. Deacon, Vivien, The Rock Art Landscapes of Rombalds Moor, West Yorkshire, ArchaeoPress: Oxford 2020.
  3. Hedges, John (ed.), The Carved Rocks on Rombalds Moor, WYMCC: Wakefield 1986.

Acknowledgements:  Big thanks to Sarah Walker for helping, albeit unsuccessfully, to scale this old rock to see the cup-and-rings on my last visit here.  At least we tried…

© Paul BennettThe Northern Antiquarian