Cliff House, Amble, Northumberland

Cist (destroyed):  OS Grid Reference – NU 2730 0486

Archaeology & History

Site location on 1926 map

In November 1857, Collingwood Bruce read out a paper that had been sent to him by the Rector of Warkworth village (Rev. W. Dunn), describing “ancient sepulchral remains” that had been found near the cliff-edge above Pan Rocks near Amble’s lighthouse.  It was a lengthy account which, in passing, also mentioned several other prehistoric sites close by that have long since been destroyed and which we have very little information about.  Mr Dunn’s (1857) letter told:

“In the middle of April last, about 50 yards NE of the Cliff House, Amble, and about 20 yards from the end of what is called Warkworth South Pier, the pilots came upon a long upright stone, standing out of the shale to the height of twelve or fourteen inches,which had been laid bare by the recent heavy gales, but which, from its rude appearance, did not afford the idea of anything beyond a mere accidental tilting.  Alongside this upright stone was a large unwrought slab, which, on being raised, was found to be the covering of a cist or sepulchral chamber containing a perfect skeleton. The figure was lying on its left side, with the head to the south-west, having the knees much doubled and with the right arm thrown back.  By its side stood an urn of unbaked clay.  This urn, now in the Museum of the Duke of Northumber­land, resembles in size and shape that which was found a few years since at Hawkhill, and which is preserved in the Museum of the Antiquarian Society of Newcastle.  It contained a small quantity of dark earth.

“Having given this general outline of the discovery, I shall proceed to offer such observations as I have been able to make,and have considered worth recording. I grieve to say that before the period of my visit the spoiler had been busy with these venerable remains. The skull had been broken up, the jaws smashed, every tooth appropriated, and the bones indiscriminately mingled, after many a century of undisturbed repose.

“The cist or chamber containing the remains was composed of four slabs inserted edge-wise in a cavity which appeared to have been dug out of the friable shale which lies upon the harder rock in this locality. It ranged south-east and north-west, and measured as follows: depth, 18½ inches; width, 26 inches; length at bottom, 4 feet; at top, 3 ft 4 in.; the difference between top and bottom measurements being accounted for by the shrinking of the ends.  The cavity in the shale was much larger than the cist, and the space between the slabs and the shale was closely filled-in with stones, roughly broken, commingled with earth and larger stones.  The side slabs projected somewhat beyond the ends.  The bottom of the cist was covered to the depth of about half an inch, with dark, unctuous mould.  Amongst the rubbish comprising the filling-up of the space above-mentioned, was found an angular piece of silex, probably an unfinished arrow­head; and in the south-west corner of the cist lay a large, smooth cobble stone, which, when considered in conjunction with the flint flake, the imagination may easily construe into the club of this ancient denizen of our shores.  The slab which constituted the cover of the cist was of great size and extended in every direc­tion considerably beyond it; and the upright stone was set up, not at one of the ends, but along its length.  It is remarkable that a close inspection of these stones gave no trace of chisel-marks in any part.  In order that the cover might lie level, pieces of shale, flags, etc., were laid on the uprights which formed the cist, wherever an irregularity presented itself.

“Within the memory of man, the rock ran out from this point for some yards into the sea at a considerable elevation; but the construction of a pier in the immediate neighbourhood has caused the removal of much of the stone, and the spray of our wild sea waves now dashes over the spot which for countless generations may have been peacefully tenanted by these nameless bones.  At the same time, it does not appear probable that at any period there has been at this particular point a very deep covering of the sand and bent-grass which are found thick and rank upon the adjacent links.

“The skull must have been very characteristic, having attracted general observation from the extraordinary lowness of the frontal region, the great development of the occipital portion of the head, and the width and length of the lower jaw from its anterior junction to the articulation of the temporal bone.  One person observed that during life the man “must have measured as much to the top of his eyebrows as to the top of his head.”  The teeth are said to have been very beautiful and regular, and quite sound.  With the exception of a front tooth, which was missing in the lower jaw, they were perfect.  The thigh-bone measured 19½ inches, indicating a man of large size; whilst the porous internal organization of the bones gave probable evidence of comparative youth.

“The urn is unbaked, of a light clay colour, and measures in height 8 inches, in depth 7¼ inches, and in diameter 5½ inches.  It is ornamented with zigzag scoring, alternating with dotted lines,and upright (and sometimes slanting) scorings, which appear to have been made with some rude instrument whilst the clay was moist.  The scorings are continued over the edge of the rim.  On being rather roughly seized by one of the men, it being expected that it contained treasure, a piece was broken off; but no material injury has been occasioned.  The stone found in the cist does not resemble any that one may pick up on the neighbouring shore, and attracted attention from its bearing no assignable relation to what I may call the masonry of the tomb.  I have since learnt that stones are not infrequently found in Teutonic graves on the Continent, and that recently a singular oval stone was found in a tumulus on Petersfield Heath.”

All trace of this site has disappeared.  Mr Bruce posited the idea that the round stone in the cist may have been the one that ended the life of the buried man!  An intriguing thought.  And that the urn “no doubt, contained some portion of the feast prepared on the occasion of his funeral.”

References:

  1. Dunn, W., “Ancient Sepulchral Remains,” in Proceedings Society of Antiquaries Newcastle-upon-Tyne, volume 1, no.34, 1857.

© Paul BennettThe Northern Antiquarian

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